Italy: Dolomites (Alta Via 4) (Day 1) What Happened When the Hike Took a Turn: My Unexpected Journey to Locatelli

July 10, 2023

The Locatelli lodge set against a rugged mountain backdrop.

Location: Rifugio Locatelli

Elevation: 8,038 feet / 2,450 meters

Difficulty: Moderate

Temperature: ~57 F

Hike time: 8:55 - 3:45pm from Restaurant Pizzeria Bar "Alte Sage" Nuova

Path: 105

Number of miles hiked: 8.14 miles

How to get to the trailhead: From San Candido Innenchen, we took bus 446 to Parcheggio Valle Campo di Dentro Parkplatz Innerfeldtal and walked towards Restaurant Pizzeria Bar "Alte Sage" Nuova. The trail begins there.

***Note to self: If you want to save 1hr of your hike, take bus 449 to Parkplatz Antoniusstein.

Bus fee: 6 EUR for 4 people

Parking: Parkplatz Innerfeldtal

39038 San Candido,

Autonomous Province of Bolzano - South Tyrol, Italy

Rifugio fee: 72 EUR per person/ night (half board)(cash only)

Rifugio Reservation: Rifugio Locatelli

WiFi: No WiFi / zero connectivity

Shower: No shower (Bring baby wipes)

Dinner: 6:00 p.m. to 7:15 p.m

Breakfast food: Only bread, cheese and ham

It all started like any other hiking trip, filled with energy and excitement. At 8:55 a.m., our small group set off, eager to tackle the trails and soak in nature's beauty. What I didn't expect was how this hike would test my resilience and reshape my view on companionship during challenging times.

The trek began in high spirits; laughter and conversations echoed around us. The terrain was flat, and we were energized as we moved through breathtaking landscapes. The sun shone brightly, birds sang, and the fresh scent of pine wafted through the air. My friends Teo, Johnny and Mike were busy pointing out landmarks, sharing funny stories, and enjoying the moments. Everything seemed perfect until it wasn’t.

The Climb Begins

By 11:30 a.m., the cheerful atmosphere began to shift as we faced a steep uphill climb. The trail quickly became a rigorous test of our physical limits, transforming laughter into focused silence. Each step felt heavier, and my legs grew weary. Despite mental preparation, the steep incline was far more demanding than I had anticipated.

The path seemed to stretch endlessly, winding up the mountainside, with the sun beating down relentlessly. At that moment, I realized that reaching the summit would require more than just determination; it would take grit and patience. I kept reminding myself of the stunning views awaiting us at the top, hoping that this thought would keep my spirits high.

Feeling Unwell

Around 2:00 p.m., I hit a brick wall. Nausea rushed over me, followed by dizziness that made it hard to think straight. A wave of panic washed over me; would I even make it? I settled on a rock, disappointment weighing heavy on my heart. I was fearful of holding my friends back.

I was fortunate to have allies like Johnny with me. He quickly recognized my struggle and offered words of comfort and support. His calm demeanor was a breath of fresh air. He emphasized that health comes first and reassured me that it was perfectly okay to pause and take care of myself.

A Tough Decision

As we sat down to regroup, time was ticking, and I worried about our check-in time. After much thought, I decided it would be best for them to continue while I took a break. “You guys go ahead. I promise I’ll be fine,” I said, though I was unhappy to delay my own adventure. I wanted them to soak in every moment, even if it meant hitting pause on mine.

Teo and Mike hesitated, but understanding eventually settled in. Johnny offered to stay back with me, ensuring I was not alone while the others hiked ahead. Having him by my side was uplifting and lightened my emotional load.

Reaching Locatelli

Eventually, Johnny and I made it to Locatelli around 3:45 p.m. Though it was later than I wanted, I felt relief knowing we had pushed through. However, reality struck when I realized that the lodge offered no Wi-Fi and, surprisingly, not a single shower.

The rustic lodge had its charm, yet transitioning from a grueling hike to a cozy respite was far from seamless. I had envisioned arriving early, relaxing, and enjoying a snack before dinner. Instead, we felt dusty and fatigued. Still, knowing that dinner would be served from 6:00 p.m. to 7:15 p.m. sparked a flicker of hope. I looked forward to refueling with a hearty meal.

Reflections on the Experience

In retrospect, this journey was about more than just the stunning views and physical trials. It taught me significant lessons about friendship and the importance of being in touch with our bodies. Even though the hike didn't go according to plan, I learned that asking for help is not a weakness. Sometimes, the most meaningful experiences come from unexpected turns.

Johnny’s unwavering support reminded me that true friendship is invaluable, especially when faced with challenges. It reinforced the idea that being part of a group means caring for each other and valuing shared experiences over just reaching the destination.

Final Thoughts

Above photo: The Antonio Locatelli Hut, in front of the Tre cime di Lavaredo

Hiking reveals much about ourselves; from our limits to our strengths. The journey to Locatelli was tough, but the memories and lessons I gathered are priceless. It is a reminder that often the road less traveled, filled with challenges and unforeseen twists, leads to some of the most cherished experiences.

Adventures may not always go as planned, but each hike tells a unique story worth sharing. Choosing to prioritize health and companionship is crucial, and despite the imperfections of my experience, I wouldn't trade it for anything. Here's to future hikes filled with fewer challenges and more camaraderie!

A warm dinner plate with desserts is being served.

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